The ocean is vast, unfathomably deep, and can be a little bit scary on occasion. Having seen first hand the devastation it can cause on a trip to Thailand, you certainly realise it is not something to be nonchalant about. It can kill. But it is also teaming with life, excitement and adventure. The best way to face the ocean then, is with a wary respect. And then approach it the way you face anything in life, face on with a smile on your face.
So, oceans! Surfing is a bit of a passion of mine, though i must admit once the waves increase in height i get increasingly nervous, probably for the same reasons i have written above. So if you are like me and you’re not searching for the towering heights of Hawaii, where can you go? For me, the best places i have been to surf so far would be Australia (obvious) Brazil (fairly obvious) Portugal (obvious) Morocco (Slightly less obvious) and good old Cornwall in the UK (ever heard of that place?). So here is a quick run-down of why i think these are good places to surf.
Australia – Practically a surfers nirvana. If you are on the coast, you’re probably about 2m from a surfboard at any one time. You can learn from the best, surf with the best, and enjoy the best of weather while you are doing it. Negatives may include too much surfing, and sharing the water with some friendly sharks.
Brazil – This is where i learnt to surf as a young girl. To keep me out of trouble i was given a surfboard to play with while on holiday (as a swimmer water safety was not a problem for 8year old me). What my parents did not expect was for me to paddle right on out to the the surfers and try to copy them. Probably gave them a heart attack, but well, they do say you learn better by doing. The waves were great, and really suited to all levels of surfers, yet a little less crowded than those Australian shores.
Portugal – This is where most of my surfing happens (mainly due to geographical location). The waves are great, although they can get bigger in autumn. On good days however, you may find yourself sharing the water with a lot of other surfers, so watch out for those flying boards!
Morocco – Not a place you usually think of for a surfing holiday, but it really does have its merits. A West Coast position means it opens out to the Atlantic, the same as Portugal above. Less competition for waves and beautiful warm weather really cements its position as a surfing goldmine.
Cornwall – A wetsuit is always needed, the wind is freezing cold and chills you to the bone, currents are moody and changeable and one too many cornish pasties will keep you off the board for the week. However, if you have never surfed in Cornwall, then you are most definitely missing something special and unique. You could say, it is very British.
So, Where are your surfing hot spots around the globe? What would you add to the list? Sorry for the late post today, i shall try to get back on track tomorrow! Until then,